Dining and entertainment etiquette in China has evolved

Editor’s note: This is the second part in a series of posts which examines how popular perceptions about China have changed over the last decade and a half. The 1997 observations were made by authors Mary Murray Bosrock and Craig MacIntosh in the book titled, “Asia: A Fearless Guide to International Communication and Behavior (Put Your Best Foot Forward).” The 2014 observations were made by BizTimes China correspondent Einar Tangen.

1997: “Dining is used to probe positions without any formal commitment. Business is generally not discussed during meals. Meals are a vehicle for indirect business references.”

2014: Eating is the main entertainment in China and being a host is all about the details, the food, the ambiance and showing your guest a good time. Dinners are supposed to help develop relationships by allowing both sides to relax and get to know each other. Keep in mind that everything you do and the gracefulness or lack thereof of your gestures and speaking will be remembered and contribute to their impression of you. Not surprisingly, the Chinese have a lot of stereotypes of westerners and they are looking to see which ones you fit into.

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Einar Tangen

1997: “The Chinese are superb hosts. Twelve-course banquets with frequent toasts are a Chinese trademark.”

2014: While the 12-course banquets are still common for diplomatic functions, as a businessman you will probably be dealing with city or district officials, and due to Xi Jinping’s new austerity rules there will be less drinking and dining at restaurants. Most officials are now using private rooms in their government cafeterias to entertain. The rooms are comfortable and food excellent but they pale in comparison to the old days when government officials spent money like it was water. The official line is “four dishes and a soup,” no smoking and no drinking. This has had a dramatic effect on the high-end restaurant segment, which has lost 60 percent of its business in the major cities. But this should be a cause for relief, as drinking endless shots of baijiu, Chinese white lightning, can be a bit of a challenge for most westerners.

1997: “Always arrive exactly on time for a banquet. Never arrive early for dinner. This implies that you are hungry and might cause you to lose face.”

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2014: I have not been to a banquet that started on time unless it was a diplomatic event. In terms of my own time management, I always arrive early so I can be on time, but then wait outside the restaurant or meeting area until the appointed time. As everywhere, how the people you are dealing with conduct themselves is a good indication of what the future holds. Traffic is generally the main culprit, but not always. It is best not to get too upset about time in China as it will just raise your blood pressure.

1997: “Be prepared to make a small toast for all occasions. The first toast normally occurs during or after the first course, not before. After the next course, the guest should reciprocate.”

2014: When you give a toast keep it short and simple, mention your host, how impressed you are with his or her kindness and how you are looking forward to a bright future. Remember everything you say has to be translated, so it will take twice the time, so keep it short and sweet. It is polite to wait for your host to propose the first toast, but if no toast has been made after the first course, feel free. The most important thing you need to consider is if you are going to drink or not. It is permissible to toast with tea.”

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1997: “Leave some food on your plate during each course of a meal to honor the generosity of your host. It is bad manners for a Chinese host not to keep refilling guests’ plates or teacups.”

2014: The rule is: do not take the last piece of food from a plate. Taking the last piece means that the host has not provided enough, so another plate will be sent for. Keeping a small piece of food on your plate guards against someone putting something more on your plate.

1997: “Do not discuss business at dinner unless your Chinese counterpart initiates it.”

2014: Your host will rarely, if ever, bring up business directly, but talk about business and personal outlook is very important. Ask who they admire politically and in business and why. Be prepared to answer or volunteer the same information. Safe small talk subjects are hometowns, traveling, sports and hobbies.

1997: “The host (the one who invites) pays the bill for everyone.”

2014: This is not necessarily true and is something you need to pay attention to. Often the person sitting opposite the head of the table will pay the bill. It is important to know who is paying the bill and why as it could have something to do with business. The person who is paying will be expecting something in return.

1997: “If you are the guest of honor at a dinner, leave shortly after the meal is finished, as no one will leave before the guest of honor.”

2014: People leave when they have to, and frequently the host has to leave early. The more important thing to remember is not to hang around as if you are expecting something else. This will lead to more drinking, KTV (karaoke) or more bars and could put you in a dangerous position. Foreigners looking for extracurricular activities are a cliché in China and one which is dangerous to your reputation and possibly your business.

Einar Tangen, formerly from Milwaukee, now lives and works in Beijing, China. He is an adviser to Heilongjiang Province, Hebei Province QEDTZ, China.org.cn, China International Publishing Group, Beijing Baotong and DGI DESIGN. He is also a weekly public affairs commentator for CCTV News’ Dialogue and the author of “The Kunshan Way,” an economic development history of China’s leading county level city. While in Milwaukee, he was a partner at Jackson, Morgan and Tangen, president of E-Tech and a senior vice president at Stifel Nicolaus. He chaired various boards in Milwaukee and was a member of the Federal Home Loan Bank of Chicago. Readers who would like to submit questions or suggest areas of interest can send an e-mail to steve.jagler@biztimes.com.

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