Independently owned restaurants in southeastern Wisconsin are at odds with national chains to establish and maintain a loyal customer base. But the Milwaukee market’s track record of supporting local businesses may be just what they need to succeed.
Several Milwaukee-area operators say local dining habits favoring independent eateries has allowed their restaurants to recover from the challenges of the COVID-19 pandemic and remain competitive against national chains and franchises.
“The chances of somebody supporting an independent restaurant are higher (in Wisconsin) than pretty much anywhere else in the country,” said Dan Sidner, co-owner of Black Shoe Hospitality.
The Wisconsin Restaurant Association estimates that roughly 70% of its 13,000 members are independently owned, meaning they are either owned by a restaurant group or an individual and are not part of a national chain, according to Tracy Kosbau, vice president of marketing and public relations for the WRA.
The community’s return from COVID
The Bartolotta Restaurant’s eight fine dining restaurant locations are part of one of Milwaukee’s most well-known locally owned hospitality brands. The 32-year-old company continues to grow – opening its newest restaurant and event venue, The Commodore, just last spring – while maintaining the integrity and tradition of its existing spots across metro Milwaukee.
“I think that the city has given us this opportunity and embraced us, and we like to think that we’ve embraced the city as well,” said Paul Bartolotta, chef, owner and co-founder of The Bartolotta Restaurants.
Despite hardship during COVID, Bartolotta’s leaned into its three tenets of success to recover: take care of the guests, take care of the stakeholders, and take care of the community.
“Our purpose became elevating the social fabric of our community,” Bartolotta said.
With its reputation and roots in the Milwaukee community, the restaurant group not only recovered, but also expanded its geographical footprint in opening The Commodore, transforming the former Seven Seas restaurant, located on a sprawling lakeside property on Nagawicka Lake in Delafield. The success of its existing restaurants and the future of the brand is centered on the idea that Bartolotta’s is in the business of people, not restaurants, Bartolotta said.
Black Shoe Hospitality faced similar struggles during COVID, but found success in expanding its offerings at all three of its restaurants: Maxie’s, Blue’s Egg and Story Hill B.K.C.
Coming out of the pandemic, Sidner and the management team at Black Shoe responded to the needs of diners – for example, offering the option to make reservations – and capitalized on new business opportunities by launching an events catering arm and adding a specialty bakery at Blue’s Egg.
With revenue on the rise and businesses returning to normal operations, Black Shoe’s catering business is booming with 50 weddings already on the books for this season. The company also expanded its catering services which now are available for pick-up and delivery for other special events. Its bakery remains a core component of Blue’s Egg’s business.
Location is key
Il Mito Trattoria e Enoteca in Wauwatosa and Delafield along with Zesti in downtown Hartland all operate under chef Michael Feker. Feker operated the first Il Mito on 6th and Virgina streets in Milwaukee’s Walker’s Point neighborhood from the early 2000s to 2014. Il Mito’s Wauwatosa location opened in 2006 and Zesti opened in 2015. Il Mito’s Delafield location followed in 2022.
Feker attributes the success of all three restaurants to the idea that they all exist in “community-driven” locations.
“Forget about a big street that is full of retail, they’ll charge you an arm and a leg for rent,” Feker said.
In opening Il Mito’s two locations and Zesti, Feker noted that the municipalities he worked with – Wauwatosa, Hartland and Delafield – were friendly and open to new business development. On top of that, the communities were lacking a place where residents could get a glass of wine and a bowl of pasta for a reasonable price.
While the communities did not have a diverse collection of eateries, there were other steakhouses and restaurants that would serve as competition, which Feker said is essential to the health of a business.
“Competition makes you be better,” Feker said. “Without it, you will not survive.”
Bobby Wiltgen, owner of Who’s on Third, Oak Barrel Public House, and Who’s on Layton, said the location of the restaurants can make or break the business. Who’s on Third and Oak Barrel Public House both occupy prime spaces on North King Drive just outside of downtown Milwaukee’s Deer District. Milwaukee Bucks fans and concert goers attending events at Fiserv Forum have had a significant impact on the business.
“Our business will thrive or not thrive depending on how activated downtown is,” Wiltgen said.
Downtown bars and restaurants like Wiltgen’s have benefitted from the increase in foot traffic thanks to the continued development of Deer District – with a new music venue under construction and hotel planned, both at the former Bradley Center site – as well as the recent Baird Center expansion.
Similarly, Who’s on Layton is located near Milwaukee Mitchell International Airport and draws travelers and locals during peak travel seasons. The consistency of its traffic has helped the bar be successful in its location, Wiltgen said.
